Himalayan Odyssey
The Women's Expedition 2015 survives an earthquake
 Mountain climbing is not just a sport, not merely a mountain activity. Mountain climbing is the song of the soul and the heart. It is the joy of a view from new heights, aligning oneself with the universe. Mountain climbing is a way of life. It is the relationship between oneself, others, the mountain, nature, challenges and life in general. The mountain teaches us courage, perseverance, dedication to purpose and team spirit. The mountain is a short cut to self-realization

 

Nepal is a country in Southern Asia. It borders with China in the north and India to the south. The Himalayas, the highest mountain range in the world, extends to the northern part of Nepal.Mount Everest, with a height of 8850m, is not only its highest peak but also the highest peak on Earth. It is on the border of Nepal and China.Of around fourteen world-renowned peaks over 8,000m, eight are in Nepal, including Mount Everest.  Nepal was a secular state from 2006 to 2007, when the Democratic Federal Republic of Nepal was declared by the interim government, marking the end of 238 years of monarchy.

Nepal has 29.5 million inhabitants, of which 88% live in rural areas and only 12% in the cities. The people of Nepal belong to numerous ethnic communities some of which are associated with the traditional caste system. The majority are Chetri (traditionally Kshatriyas, about 16%), Brahmins (approximately 13%), Magar (7%) and Tharu (6.75%). Ethnic Sherpas, known for being climbing expedition guides, make up 0.68% of the population. Hinduism is the largest religion (80%), followed by Buddhism (11%).

Nepali is spoken by approximately half the population. At the time of British colonial rule in India, Nepal remained independent or isolated from the world and paid the price of underdevelopment and economic backwardness. The main industry is agriculture, but the service industry of tourism isdeveloping. The Nepalese flag is the only flag in the world that does not have a rectangular shape. Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal, with more than a million people, is located at 1,400m above sea level. The Annapurna and Everest regions are the most developed tourist regions in Nepal, due to the large number of climbers from around the world, who come to the Himalayas.

 

The Women's Tharpu Chuli Expedition: 5,663 metres above

Sea level

Tharpu Chuli (5,663m) peak is located in the central part of the Annapurna range, in Nepal.

Top of Tharpu Chuli (5,663m)

It issurrounded by peaks of up to 6,000–8,000m, with a view of one of the ten highest peaks in the world, Annapurna I (8,091m). Its height maynot be impressive, however,it is technically very demanding, with a section of more than 400m of alpine climbing, where a fixed rope, hammer and ice pick are required. Data on Tharpu Chuli was very limited, asthis was the first expedition from this region to make the climb to the summit. This added a certain challenge  to this whole story.

The women's expedition "Himalaya 2015" took place between 17thApril and 2nd May 2015. After eighteen months of selection and preparation, the long-awaited expedition to the Himalayas began. The team of mountaineers that made up the expedition included, Biljana Medenica (Montenegro), Biljana Cegar, Jelena Ignjatijevic, Branka Bradasevic, Sonja Pavlovic, Biljana Savkovic, Andrijana Miletic and Vesna Djokovic (Serbia). All had qualified during the selection process to go to the Himalayas and climb Tharpu Chuli (5,663m).The expedition was sponsored by the"Extra Summit Team", a mountaineering club fromBelgrade.

I had been with them from the beginning, during all the preparations for the Himalayas. I had not been officially selected for the group, so hadjoined the expedition at my own expense and with the support and sponsorship of friends:

Kuci Development Fund; Skill Engineering, Podgorica Capital City, Restaurant "Pod Volat " and Company “Hemomont“ joined the expedition.

I had a great desire to go to Nepal and experience the Himalayas firsthand. I have been a mountaineer since 2012. Ihave learned a lot about myself, and other people, in the mountains. FirstI climbed Bobotov Kuk on Durmitor, then Prutas, Mitikas on Olympus, Midzor on Stara Planina, Musala in the Rila in Bulgaria, Shar Planina in Macedonia, Vasojevicki Kom, Grand Paradiso, Italy's highest peak and Mont Blanc, the highest peak in France.

These climbs were all in preparation for Tharpu Chuli at 5,663m, in the Himalayas.

Guides from the agency met us at the airport in Kathmandu (the capital city of Nepal with 3.5 million inhabitants). We arrived at the hotel accommodationand the following day we travelled to Pokhara(a city of around 500,000 inhabitants)by van. During the six-hour trip we witnessed the beautiful landscapes of rice fields, bananas, various fruits and enjoyed nice restaurants.

We tasted the hot and spicy Nepalese food, which we eventually got used to. Drinking water was a big problem. Therefore, water prices rosewith the increasing altitude. There was no basic infrastructure in Kathmandu, and free-flowing water was supplied to hotel rooms from cisterns installed on the hotel roof.

There were no bins or garbagecollection. The city was very dusty and humid due to the monsoon climate. The people were friendly, however. They spoke English and the rooms were clean and tidy. Bread could only be bought in thehigh-class hotels and restaurants. Rice was the staple diet and was eaten with the hands.

 

Diagnosed by the Mountain

The experiences were incredible. Cold, cold rain and sleeping in tents at twenty degrees below zero and climbing for up to ten hours a day, everyday, with backpacks which could weigh as much as twenty pounds. In the mountains, I got to know myself and the others much better.

Dragan Jaćimović

Dragan Jacimovic, the expedition organizer, said: "We aredictated to by the mountain, and we have only one identity on the mountain, the true one. Therefore, for those of us who want to facereality and change, the mountain will deliver a reliable diagnosis.“Our emotions were changing like the mountain weather. The challenges were many and time was short. We hiked an average of ten hours a day, and climbed a thousand metres above sea level every day. We had time to have breakfast, lunch, dinner, take a shower and sleep.

 

Nepal has a real tropical monsoon climate with dry and rainy seasons. We set off from Pokhara (the second largest city in Nepal), which is about 700m above sea level. In the evening, Pokhara reminded me of a coastal city, with many shops, hotels, restaurants and the trail by Lake Phewa Tal, where there were a lot of boats. Pokhara is surrounded by high peaks. It is magical. Many rare trees grow by the lake. Pipal trees, large in diameter, and Nepalese pines are among them. Chara, (Nepalese birds) sing beautifullyin the trees. The body reacts differently at over two thousand metres above sea level, so there were situations that showed us the truemagic of the Himalayas.

 

Dotted alongthe route were lodges (houses), where we stopped to have a break for lunchand where we slept.The vegetation differed depending on the region, and in certain areas monkeys could be seen in the trees. The hiking trail was made of local stone,with stairs leading up to the ABC (Annapurna Base Camp, 4,130m). We climbed, then descended to the river and thenclimbed again. A variety of vegetables were planted on the cascading, cultivated hillsides. Due to thepace and distance travelled, almost all of us reached the ABCwith altitude sickness, accompanied by nausea, headache, swelling and vomiting. I also had a fever and could not eat.

 

Altitude Sickness

It was snowing in the AB camp and the sun only briefly appeared from behind the clouds. The weather was very bad during the expedition. There was rain in the morning and sometimes heavy rain and fog in the afternoon. The mountain weather forecast was unfavorable. The Sherpas and guides went ahead to prepare the Tharpu Chuli base camp, at 4,560m. From Annapurna base camp, we crossed the glacier. Stones were falling the entire way. We used a fixed rope to exitthe glaciers. We left the strenuous sectionbehind us.

 

Despite fatigue and our heavy backpacks, the porters (carriers) and guides who were leading us, gave us strength. They carried heavy loads and climbedwithout mountaineering equipment, in ordinary shoes, often with soaked feet,and they werealways smiling and helpful. Up a slope, not far from the high-altitude camp, at 4,500m, we were met by Sherpas offering hot ​​ginger and lemon tea. It was an incredibly pleasant surprise, and the tea revived us.

They helped us to reach the camp, where food and tents were waiting for us. Languid and exhausted from the altitude sickness and fever, we arrived at base camp, Tharpu Chuli. We changed clothes and gathered in a tent where our chefs had prepared a fantastic lunch. Rasa asked how we all felt;he always cared about the women's well-being.

He asked who could withstand the climb to the summit and back to the Annapurna base camp, as due to the conditions, we were not required to do so, as first planned. It would take roughly seventeen hours. I said that I was not feeling well andI believed that I was not capable of climbing to thesummit. I thought that we would wait for them at the camp. However, accompanied by the two porters and the Sherpa who had led us through the glacier, Mladen, Marko and Biljana Savkovic, set off to the Annapurna base camp.

 

Earthquake at 4,500m

On the way, some 4,400–4,500m along the trail, the ground began to shake and landslides were heard all around. We stopped and everyone thought it was an avalanche descending from the summit,which had made the ground shake. We soon realized that it was an earthquake. It lasted for two whole minutes.

 

Whilst lowering ourselves down to a passage, using a fixed rope, another strong earthquake struck.The Sherpa helped us to get down and with two porters we continued to the AB camp, unaware of the strength and destructive power of the earthquake that had changed the passage layout from the day before. We were not even able to find a way out of the glacier.

The trail proposed by the porters was very risky. We could not returnif we went in the wrong direction, and every misstep could cost someone's life. For that reason we circled the glacier the whole day, looking for a safer option. We decidedthat should no way out be found, because of the fog and bad visibility, we would find a safer place and spend the night on the glacier. Shortly after the decision was made, Marko saw some people higher up, and we all started shouting for help,in both languages, our mother tongue and English.

 

The Hand of Salvation

At one point a voice from above asked: "What do you need?"“It is Jacim”, I said. And just as I said it, I thought I must be hallucinating. How exactly could Jacim be there, when we had left them behind? However, he was there and they came to meet us. They helped us find a path, which was completely invisible from the glacier, due to the earthquake.

Extending his hand towards me, he said: "You see Radmila, these are the Himalayas". “I know”, I answered. I was so happy to have him there. At Annapurna base camp, Jacim's team did their best to help us, make us warm and take care of us. We learned that they had been at Macha Puchare base camp when the earthquake had struck, and that the avalanche had passed just ten feet from them. It was horrible. We recounted our experiences to each other and learned that a large number of buildings had been demolished, and that the earthquake intensity was 7.9 on the Richter scale.Many were dead andburied in the rubble. It was the strongest earthquake since the one in1934, which killed 8,000 people and leveledthe city to the ground. We feared for the team that had gone to the summit. We had no information about them. We wondered what hadhappened to them.

 

The next day,there was another strong earthquake in ABC and we all went outside. Jacim sent a Sherpa to see the team members at the high-altitude camp and to tell them not toclimb down that day, but to wait until the following day. It was tense,waitingto hear from them. Jacim was supposed to climb to the summit with that team, however, after the earthquake he had givenup.Waiting for them to return from the summit was the hardest thing. We took turns keeping watch, Mladen, Biljana, Marko and I, with the two porters who were with us. On our turn, we waited at the exit from the glacier to help them come out. Finally they arrived,very tired, their faces burned from the sun at the summit, exhausted. We welcomed them with hot, refreshing tea.

 

It was reported in the media that we were all trapped in the Himalayas and that there were casualties. This caused panic and we informed the media that we were alive and well. Two days later we arrived in Pokhara, and the following day, inKathmandu. The city was eerie. The buildings near the hotel, inwhich we hadstayedwhen we arrived, were had been demolished. A public fountain in the city was buried under rubble. Shops were closed. Lines of cars stretchedfrom Kathmandu to Pokhara and the mountains.

On the side of the roadwas the body of a motorcyclist, who had beenkilled. Several people were running in that direction. It is an image that has stayed with me, one of communal spirit. There was an air of great sadness. We arrived in Kathmandu and Jacim organized a dinner at a hotel,from where news agencies were reporting live on the situation in Nepal, following the earthquake. There were around 8,000 dead and over 19,000 injured in the devastating earthquake, whose epicenter was located 80km from Kathmandu. The strenuous climb to thesummit now paled into insignificance. The team that had climbed to the summit was not even aware of what had caused the earthquake and its aftermath. We spent two unpredictablenights in Kathmandu, and every evening there were more earthquakes of a lower intensity.

 

The Expedition Organizer

Upon returning to the hotel in Kathmandu, where we were staying,I spoke with the expedition organizer, Dragan Jacimovic. I asked him why he had chosen that particular peak, and he said:

"Tharpu Chuli was chosen specifically because it was a technically difficult, demanding, and somewhat dangerous peak. It is not very high, but it is a good example of what happens on peaks of over 8,000 metres. I deliberately shortened the time of the expedition, which meant more effort would be required, due to acclimatization. I wanted to see what would happen when we were faced with such a great challenge. I am very pleased with the way it turned out. The team is a new person, who is growing. I do not see it as group of individuals.I am interested in them only as a whole. Thatis how I think of them. It's hard to bring together and maintain a team.

 

This idea is in complete contrast to what is happening in our country. Who gives all his knowledge to another person for free these days? I believe that everything that is given with sincerity, with good intentions, must sooner or later thrive. It is so important to have peace of mind and tranquility when making decisions on the mountain. It takes a long time for a person to reach that level. For me,it is all about courage, patience and endurance. One has to remain patient for two months,when climbing Mount Everest. It took courage to begin this adventure with the women's expedition. It takes eighteen months to plan. During that time one hasa million obstaclesto overcome, without giving up. This is courage. It's what makes the difference. A ridiculous idea? We can all be crazy sometimes,"says Jacimovic.

 

A Devastating Earthquake

In Nepal, people do not live like back home, with two or three people in an apartment.There, fifteen to twenty people live in a house and when it collapses, an enormous number of them perish. And it is incredibly sad that the holy places of Hinduism and Buddhism were all destroyed. I know thatthey will be reconstructed again as they areunder UNESCO protection.

Nevertheless, the buildings are 300 to 400 years old, and it is sad. Did you know that 75,000 children, aged between one to five years old, die there every year? Hardly anyone knows that figure, because this is a rural area. Apart from Kathmandu, there are not many cities. Many people live in the hills and in the villages. They have no healthcare and in principle it is believed that those who can survive in such conditions, are equipped to live in the Himalayas. This is natural selection and they do not stress about it much. When comparing the figures, many more people die here from infectious diseases than from earthquakes. Their community functions well and, unlike us who alienate ourselves, they are connected and live in large families, a community, and help each other out. One can see them smiling and living in harmony with the environment, with nature. There are thirty-six nations or castes in Nepal,speaking 17 languages, and the official language is Nepali. What is interesting for Nepal is the relationship and synergy between Hinduism and Buddhism, making no difference between the two, which is rarely found elsewhere. They are one. Buddhists go to a Hindu temple and vice versa. Ceremonies and holidays are mixed -all is followed by all. There is never any conflict. Peace and respect for traditions that existed there long before Buddhism havelasted to this day.

 

Intuition is the Alphabet of God

“One of my favorite sayings is: ‘Choices make a human being, not opportunities’. This is not about God-given potential; it is about how one uses it and reacts in certain situations. What one does with it. One may claim that he is a good person, although he does no good deeds. And yet, one is what one gives. One's choices are the crossroads in life, leading to one place or another. I tell people that the aim is, to become aware of one’s self, to minimize the unconscious. We, human beings, are strange. I read somewhere, that someone has formulated a wonderful phrase “Intuition isthe Alphabet of God'.

The Nepalesefeel this and live in harmony with nature. They believe that every mountain has its own soul, character, and name, and so they treat it like a living thing, a human being. Today people live in a completely different environment, with a very different set of values, fearing to give anything. All the languages of the world are spoken here. It is incredibly easy to communicate. People quickly understand each other using their eyes, looks, gestures and words. This would be difficult to achieve when visiting a western, civilized and developed country. There, one is not likely to be understood if they do not speak the language. I simply feel peace here, physically. I do not know why the Himalayas, and I do not know why I feel it here, but I do feel it and I like it.

 

There is a proverb that says: ‘A person has a thousand faces, but only one face on the mountain’. Therefore, some say that the mountains and the Himalayas change people. I would say that is not the case. The mountains only determine who you are. One is always who he is, only one's true face is shown here. It is to see, to open up and to say, it is you. The question is, when looking at oneself in the mirror,here in the mountains, will one be scared of one’s own reflection? Is one going to accept one's self, agree that something is wrong andhas to be changed, or close one's eyes and say, ‘No, no, it is not true’. “Everything is up to us, whether we are prepared to change or not," Dragan Jacimovic concluded.

 

 

The Expedition Leader

Aleksandar Rasin, leader of the women's expedition "Himalaya 2015", had been with the team since the beginning. Despite theunforeseencircumstances, he succeeded in leading the women safely to the peak and back.

 

Aleksandar Rasin

"When undertaking something for the first time, the outcome is always uncertain. Somehow, by default,it is believed that expeditions are only for men. There have been expeditions in the region where only women took part. Women are equally as good atmountaineering as men. Maybe they are not able to physically withstand each challenge like a man, but eventually they will master everything. The idea was to show that mountain climbing did not have to have a limit. Simply, it is a single world.

This time, Tharpu Chuli set several new challenges;there were situations that could not have been foreseen.4,000m,is really thepoint, beyond which an unacclimatized personwill start to develop serious altitude sickness. I am a supporter of natural ways of acclimatization, without the use of additional assistance, because I believe that it is better to let the body self-adapt to changes.

The Final Climb

The final climb was very exhausting due to weather conditions, meaning we could not put up the high-altitude camp, but instead had to climb from the base camp. It was from 4,500m to almost 5,700m and back. It was a very, very steep climb.

There was no time to set up a high-altitude camp,which was another tough decision that had to be made. I was not sure that all the women could endure such an effort at that altitude, but it was simply the question of moving forward from there or not. It was again one of those "yes" or "no" decisions. Such decisions have to be very precise. There are no grey areas, no maybe this, maybe that, either this way or that way. Theclimb, let us go back to it, was very long, so I decided to start climbing at 1.00am,in order to be able to walk on hard snow before reaching the peak, becausewe also had to come back from the summit.

Therefore, the point was not only to climb the peak, but more importantly to return to base, which is always more difficult than the climb itself. While climbing to the summit,one feels an adrenaline rush, excitement before the climb.

One is well rested, full of energy and desire, and when theyget to the top a lot of people make the mistake of saying: ‘I have succeeded; I am at the top.’ On the way back, the excitement and adrenaline disappear, the weather gets worse, there is less strength, and these are the moments when unfortunately fatal errors occur.

People overestimate themselves. I was aware of that and I was careful not to overestimate the women. I believed that they were ready, but the psyche plays a major role. Therefore, climbing up, I was more focused on encouraging them, to noticewhen they encountered a crisis, and to encourage them again. Everyone will sooner or later have a crisis, but it is important to be able to recognize the crises in oneself and in others and to react in the right way. Climbing up to the top, we came across an ice wall section,of around 350 to 370m.

It was a demanding section where the slope was 45-60 degrees. It was physically the most demanding section. Many things went against us. In recent days a layer of thirty centimetres of new snow had been formed, very soft and very inconvenient for walking, which was really quite aggravating. The day before, our Sherpas had set a fixed rope, but when we got to the climb, because of the conditions of the new snow, they had to make additional knots and set up security in new places.

Because of this we lost approximately four hours, which contributed to the decline in mood and energy. Standingfor four hours in the snow at -21degrees was not at all pleasant. However, all ended well. All of that was a great experience and I was glad to be part of the team and I hope to continue this story with the women."Rasin, the expedition leader, concluded.

 

 

The Expedition Participant’s Impressions

After returning safely to Pokhara, to the hotel accommodation, I talked to the women about their impressions.What they said is summarized below.

 

Biljana Cegar

"It was quite an inexperienced team. The weather was very bad. Heavy snow made all activities difficult, even the simple movements of rappelling and jamming. The temperature was low. We had to continuously pay attention to each step we took. Everything took much longer than it was supposed toand everything was much more difficult than it would have been, had the weather conditions been different. I think it was very risky and that the Sherpas were perhaps right to suggest not toclimb the peak. And yet, the risk paid off, if the summit was the goal.” Biljana Cegar.

 

Jelena Ignjatijevic

"One is always pleased when a goal is achieved. Certainly, climbing Tharpu Chuli was a great life experience. Thanks to theexpertise of the Sherpasand our guide Aleksandar Rasin, we managed to overcome theunforeseen circumstances. When climbing, we could not stop because of excessive snowfall. This was totally unexpected. That is why it was a big adventure, not justa mountaineering experience. On several occasions, it was very risky for the whole team. A year of preparations had made the team strong. I think that was crucial. People say that once a person has been to the Himalayas, theywill wish to return, no matter what, regardless of the difficulty and exhaustion. We definitely want to go back there.”Jelena Ignjatijevic.

 

Biljana Medenica

"For a mountaineer, technical knowledge is very important. I had already visited the Himalayas and many European mountains, but I never experienced an earthquake in the mountains. One simply did not know what was going on, but at that moment all the people there were breathing as one. As for the climb to the summit, weather conditions were very bad. The goal was not only to climb to the summit, it was also important to return to the base camp, and another camp at a lower altitude. This took two days and was very exciting. We were safe and, thank God, everything ended as it should." Biljana Medenica.

 

Branka Bradašević

"I'm one of those disciplined hikers who always stick to their group and hiking rules, so that I always feel safe. The hardest thing of all for me was after the earthquake, when we heard that the media had released the bad news in our country. I am very proud that I was able to make it to the summit, which has been my biggest personal success so far. I'm proud of myself for being one of those,who will make our society climb a rung on the ladder. I'm really doing my best, and I love passing my knowledge on to others. I feel more mature than when I came here and I have a completely new view of people, civilization, and life in general."Branka Bradasevic.

 

Sonja Pavlovic

"This team, "Himalaya 2015", was able to successfully complete the challenge. I personally had a minor leg injury. It was not so bad. When the snow froze and it was decided that we would go to the summit, nothing was going to stop me. The earthquake, at such a height,was something incredible. The Nepalese said they had never experienced an earthquake in the mountains. We feared more for the part of the team that had gone to the AB camp. Right up until the last minute, it was not certain whether we would go to the summit, due to the very bad weather conditions. It was foggy when we reached the summit, and although no one said it, the general feeling wasthat we did not get to experience the peak and the Himalayas at their best."Sonja Pavlovic.

 

Biljana Savković

"Due to the previous altitude sickness, I felt weak and found it all hard. In addition, my backpack was too heavy, as well as my shoes. I felt hungry and was not able to eat. The moment Rasa confirmed that we would return to ABC I felt relieved because I was not in the best condition, but there was also some despair. I had tears in my eyes when I said, "No! Why?I'm going up." I was wrong, of course.An avalanche could have started above us as well, and covered us. The second earthquake took place just before the rappel. We lost some nine hours in the fog. We could have perished on the glacier and we had the issue of where we would spend the night if no way out of the glacier could be found. And yet, despite everything, all ended well. My main impression is that I survived getting lost in the Annapurnaregion."Biljana Savkovic.

 

Andrijana Miletic

"We started climbing Tharpu Chuli peak from the camp at 4,600m above sea level. The climb to the summit and the height, at which I had never been before, were a new experience. I had a lot of support and help from my experienced colleagues. They helped us by giving their advice, like the expedition leader, Rasa. All went well, and we managed to reach the summit. I brought home memories of a great experience, one that I shall try to pass on, in the spirit of this story. I hope there will be more such experiences. My impressions are great. I enjoyed the whole adventure, climbing to the summit and all the new experiences that we survived." Andrijana Miletic.

 

Vesna Đoković

"This was all a great experience. We doubted perhaps, and I believe that the Sherpas also doubted, that we would get to the summit. The fixed rope was not set up by the Sherpas on time, not until we had to climb it. That was the biggest problem, and also when Rasa said the ascent would take eight hours. We were jamming for 700-800m, which was not easy. However, all the difficulties of thehike disappearedfor me,the moment I heard that someone hadtoldreporters that four girls had been killed in an avalanche, caused by the earthquake. The thought of my family and how they would react was by far the most difficult thing for me. Yet they managed to confirm that we were all well. When we arrived back at Annapurna base camp, everything looked nice. Everythinglooked beautiful to me. Some kind of love is born from a great effort. A certain atmosphere is created where everyone is dear to me, like family members. When we arrived in Pokhara, at the foot of the mountain, and there was no more fear of earthquakes, I said,‘I wish we could go back upto eight thousand metres’. When I have survived all this, I can survive anything. Life is beautiful."Vesna Djokovic.

 

Radmila Krgovic

One female expedition was successfully completed and the women managed to overcome some major challenges on the way to the summit. They experienced everything, and in doing so, found the strength to endure the climb to the summit and back in unfavorable weather conditions and in emergency situations, caused by the earthquake. A new peak in the Himalayas awaits this team, and it will also certainly be over 8,000m high. Life is beautiful!

 Author and expedition member: Radmila Krgovic

Photos: Aleksandar Rasin and other  expedition members

Translator: Dragana Petronijević
Proofreader: Tracy Janjevic
Assistant to prooffreader: Caroline Jovicevic

 

 

 
 
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